The signs had been there the day before, as my travelling companions and I made our way into the Kericho Green Stadium, as it was called then, hours before President William Ruto renamed it after legendary athlete Kiprugut Chumo.
As we rode into the field, I took note of the prisoners in their striped uniforms and orange sweaters raking mud behind the stands and couldn’t help but mention to my colleagues – for the third time that day – that unlike them, I arrived prepared with gumboots and a raincoat which were at that moment tucked away in my luggage.
And though my thoughts were preoccupied with whether we’d find a decent place to lay our heads later that night, given the number of nonresidents expected to descend on Kericho for the Mashujaa Day festivities, something seemed amiss. “Where are the military?” I asked my colleagues. “They completed their drills earlier,” Emmy let me know.
At that moment, a skit around Universal Health Coverage was playing out on the field as Emmy’s band, the Bureti Superstars, milled about the stage having just completed their rehearsals. “They are the longest standing band in the Rift Valley,” Emmy, their manager and with whom I was newly acquainted, stated proudly – a claim I can neither confirm nor deny.
I had bigger fish to fry. The host of the two-bedroom Airbnb I’d reserved for KES 2,383.66 had just made me a ‘special offer’ of USD 110 which at today’s exchange rate converts to KES 16,522 for the night. And demanded an immediate answer.
That is how on the morning of Mashujaa Day we found ourselves making a one-and-a-half hour long trip from Bomet county to the Kericho Green Stadium at 3.30am. Watu wa Media had been advised to make their way into the stadium by 6am. Unlike what is expected, the car passes that had been issued to us were worthless on the material day. The police demanded that we disembark our vehicle and walk several kilometres to the venue.
It helps in moments like these to have one in your midst who can stand up to the authorities a make a persuasive case to be let through. I’m not that person. Fortunately for our team and I, Nick Wambua is. It also helps to have a driver who’s familiar enough with a place that he finds a way to deposit you as close as possible to the Gate C we’d been instructed to use.
Before we got to Gate C, we stopped at Gate B, in search of Gate C. The officer who stood guard outside Gate B informed us that this gate was reserved for dignitaries. But given there were no dignitaries in sight, we asked that he let us through. He had his orders.
We marched onward alongside Community Health Promoters in their blue aprons and carried red knapsacks on their backs. But before we could approach Gate C, we had to cut our way through a wall of humanity. Men, women and children waiting to be allowed into the stadium to witness the planned festivities for themselves. Little did we know that not more than two hours earlier, five people had been trampled to death. Unaware, my biggest concern at the time was that the contents of my handbag remain intact.
As we pushed our way through, there was understandably voiced discontent. Who were these entitled people attempting to cut to the front of the line – only that there were no lines, just a mass of raia. An officer standing between us and the gate kept shouting, “tengenezeni line mbili!” Loosely translated as “form two lines/queues”.
And in a misguided attempt to enforce this order, he began swinging his baton at the front of the semblance of a queue. We swayed, en masse. It was at this point that my colleagues and I got separated as we attempted to disengage ourselves from the multitude.
My colleague Wambui Kurema and myself managed to stick together, eventually shoving our way to the front, at the gate, and making it through. On the other side of the gate, we met a muddy morass. For a moment I wondered at the abandoned shoes we were stepping on, but foremost on my mind was making it onto the field.
Visibility was limited, and so we followed the herd of blue-apron-wearing, red-knapsack-carrying Community Health Promoters. We first followed them up a set of stone steps before they changed course and went under and around one of the spectator stands, KG5. One of them stated “hapa ni kifo.” [Here, this is death]. Little did she know the truth of her statement.
But, after the mud-ness, we made it onto the field, that nearby, distant Canaan. I remember telling Nick, “If it wasn’t for our Press passes, I don’t know…”
Later, after leaving the mass of bog outside, to standing on thinner films of mud, the march-past and entertainment concluded. Those who had not secured seats were allowed onto the field. A wall of security personnel was stationed between them and the VVIP dais, nowhere else. This got me thinking, who were they here to protect; the leaders from the people? Whose day was this, anyway?
But, I must admit, I ask these questions from a position of privilege because once again, on our return to Nairobi, after wiping the mud off our shoes and pants, we cut to the front of the line, hitching our ‘wagon’ to that of the presidential escort; cheering as we elbowed other vehicles to the side of the road because there is no place more intoxicating than at the front of the line – mud or no mud.
Join our community and solve the Puzzling fun with our range of crosswords
We are building some fun puzzles to put your problem-solving skills to the test and we want you to have a blast while you're at it!
Share your email and we’ll serve up new puzzles with your morning coffee.
Do you want to help shape the features we prioritize? Take a Survey to help us understand what matters to you most
Begin SurveyAM Live is NTV's morning current affairs show that sets the agenda for the day with insightful panels every weekday.
Business Redefined is Kenya’s premier thought leadership platform for unpacking matters regarding economic and finance policy as well demystifying complex developments in the region’s capital markets.
This is Daily Politics. Here we look into the ins and outs of everything Kenyan politics. We pull no punches and have no reason to sugarcoat anything that matters to Kenyans.
A collection of our premium content. Diam curabitur vehicula A collection of our premium content. Diam curabitur vehicula
A collection of our premium content. Diam curabitur vehicula A collection of our premium content. Diam curabitur vehicula
Gumzo La Sato is a live social issues show that aims to create awareness about issues affecting the larger society. The discussions range from Parenting, Marital bliss and struggles, Oppression, violence, and all matters of the Heart.
Health Diary is a weekly show that highlights different types of diseases/conditions and seeks ways to prevent, treat/manage them. The show debunks this through real life stories and also feature specialists in different fields, to offer medical advice on the same.
Letter To My Younger Self is a podcast where guests get to write a letter to their younger self, from which Maxine formulates questions to ask them during the hour-long show.
Nation Reports is a weekly podcast offers an opportunity for listeners to interact with various reporters and journey with them as they unravel the biggest most emotive stories.
Paradise Lost peeks through the story of Louis Otieno, the times, and everything in between.
Speaking of Gen Z brings you entertaining but meaningful conversations about a generation that is trying to navigate through adulthood. Join hosts Michelle, Jackie and Esther as they unravel all things Gen Z.
Sport-On is a 30-minute sports magazine show on NTV and 3 hours on NATION FM. The show seeks to give the sports “fanatics” and “funatics” comprehensive and in-depth coverage of sports both locally and internationally.
Thamani is a business show which is dedicated to emerging issues regarding micro, small and medium size businesses.
A two-hour-long live show that airs on Fridays. The show focuses on what is current in the entertainment industry, controversial and popular across all media platforms targeting those aged between 25 and 35 years.
The trend podcast highlights and captures the best of banter from #TTTT segment that airs every Friday on NTV. It's the TTTT EXTRA
The Wicked Edition with Dr. King’ori seeks to address serious issues through humour and relatable wit. It is a two-part half hour show filmed in front of a live audience
A collection of our premium content. Diam curabitur vehicula A collection of our premium content. Diam curabitur vehicula
Twende is a travel show that highlights beautiful, unique, diverse locations, people, and cultures. The show offers fresh perspectives on familiar locations and memorable experiences in new ones.
This Saturday evening lifestyle show lets viewers share their stories and life experiences as openly & honestly for the purpose of shifting the culture of silence.
VIP ACCESS is Anyiko Owoko’s YouTube and podcast show on Music and Culture dedicated to promoting Africa’s most promising talent and creatives. This podcast grants you VIP access into timeless interviews while providing a platform for rising as well as established artists across the continent. Since launching in 2018, Anyiko has interviewed over 70 African music stars.
This weekly news show aims to have all sides of debate but not be constrained by it, listen to main voices in the contest but not allow them to hold the viewers hostage, entertain debate but allow push back with all due respect.
In this podcast, three widowers openly speak about the process of grief, how they found themselves exposed to the emotional turmoil of losing their wives, and how society still does not know how to deal with them.
Your World is a health, wellness and variety show. It provides a platform for audiences and experts to share their experiences on how to improve or manage health issues, across Kenya and the Africa region.
